Review of Kirkland Old Fashioned

Edible chocolate Kahlua cups, a glass pitcher and rod to stir martinis, Galliano for Harvey wall bangers— I grew up during the golden age of cocktails. Speaking of age, when did it become impolite to ask a whiskey’s age?

My Dad had one Crown Royal on the rocks every night when he came home from work. About which it can be said, to paraphrase from the Byrds, My Back Pages, “It was so much older than, it’s younger than that now.”

Which brings me to the Costco premixed Old Fashioned. I pride myself on my mixology. Canned cocktails were anathema. But flying on Alaska Airlines I sampled an award winning canned margarita that surpassed that of many bars.

So with a recently opened mind I approached the Kirkland cocktail. I was influenced by the price—16.99 for a liter. Second the simplicity of an Old Fashioned. The drink consists of bourbon, bitters and simple syrup. No need for a ready-to-drink version to have preservatives or artificial flavors.

Kentucky Straight Bourbon is required to be at least 2 years old, but if younger than 4, the bottle must have an age statement. That does not apply to cocktails in a bottle. If this whiskey attained its 4th birthday, it was bottled before the candles were blown out. More likely, it is younger. The drink is harsh.

One of the reasons for mixed drinks is to soften the whiskey. You never should use a top shelf bourbon. The mix hides the flaws of a mid-shelf whiskey, and subsumes the strengths of a great one. But, how low can you go?

Fortunately, the Kirkland Old Fashioned is not overly sweet. If you like a sweeter Old Fashioned, add a bit of agave nectar. Being more potent than simple syrup it eradicates the harshness, and results in a suitable cocktail.

An alternative on a cold night, is to add an equal amount of boiling water to your beverage. This also softens the whiskey.

Cheap juice is cheap juice, but if you are willing to tinker, you can have an acceptable drink. If not, go to the top of the bottom shelf, like Evan Williams, and make your own for a comparable price.